SANDY SPRINGS. Although the decor and location aren't as chi chi as you'll find at some restaurants, the food more than compensates. Cantonese cuisine is the specialty, and seafood is a particular strength. Along with shrimp and lobster, you'll find salt and pepper squid, Peking duck (without advance notice), soft-shell crabs, and whole grouper in an aromatic sauce. Spicing is judicious and doesn't obscure the flavor of the foods. Plus, vegetarian options are available, and even the soups are incredible, much more interesting than the usual concoctions you find at other Asian restaurants.

BUCKHEAD. At this elegant, candlelit Chinese restaurant and piano bar, the talented maitre d' often tickles the ivories while you dine. The lengthy menu is much superior to typical American Chinese restaurants, and the excellent cuisine and soothing ambiance attract a large clientele of local regulars. Any dish served with the crispy dry spinach is certain to be a hit. Other delicious options include whole butterfly snapper, duck ravioli, and lamb in pepper sauce.

MIDTOWN. Hong Kong Harbor is known for having the best dim sum in town, made fresh every day. On Saturday and Sunday mornings, the dining room is packed with folks feasting on these and other Chinese favorites. As an alternative, consider the whole jumbo shrimp special-order plate. All dim sum specialties served at the weekend brunch are also available daily beginning at 11am.

SMYRNA. Secreted away in a strip mall, House of Chan has earned a strong reputation for its spot-on cooking and friendly ambience. Locals give it lots of business, although people from all over the metro have discovered its culinary charms. A broad menu promises plenty of options, and HOC's "kulu" preparation of chicken, shrimp or pork will render inferior any other versions of sweet-and-sour you've had before. Other specialties include black pepper shrimp, plum roast duck, spicy garlic beef, and red snapper filet with asparagus.

DOWNTOWN. Constantly busy with downtown professionals and folks staying at nearby hotels, Hsu's boasts much more than a convenient location. Its husband-and-wife team capitalize on their Asian heritage and love of food, and their passion shows in the celebrated cuisine. Szechuan and Hunan dishes are a specialty, and you'll find everything from Peking duck served in three courses to walnut shrimp, wok-charred beef medallions, and sea scallops in black pepper sauce. Another favorite is Spicy Anna's Seafood Noodle Soup.